Finally we were able to check in, and we all breathed sighs of relief as our luggage came in under the 20kg and no excess fees were levied. We do have some doubts about the scales, but certainly didn’t argue! Then it was through for a bit of quick duty free shopping, and then onto the plane for the 4 hour flight to Delhi. The flight was very bouncy at the beginning, but eventually settled down and we enjoyed the best hospitality that Air Astana had to offer. Fortunately we didn’t end up in any difficulties during the flight as the person doing the safety briefing in English had decided it was all too hard and given up half way, leaving the air hostesses in the aisle somewhat bemused as to what they should do with their lifejackets! Speaking of half-way, the night we flew to Delhi was officially the half-way point of the trip – Day 88!
We arrived into Delhi, negotiated for taxis and exited the airport – into a wall of heat, humidity, noise and people. Our taxi ride was exciting to say the least, as it was the first time many of us had experienced Indian driving. Road rules are ignored (well, I am assuming that they exist in the first place, which might be an incorrect assumption!), traffic comes at you from all directions and the noise – well, in a country where looking in your mirror is considered to be a step backwards, the only way to let someone know that you are there is by using your horn. And use them they do. Constantly. The noise is incredible and never-ending. Where the English flash their lights to gently suggest that someone should move out of their lane, the Indians sit on their horn until the car / truck / bus / rickshaw / horse-drawn cart / pedestrian moves. Amazingly everything seems to work. Apparently what we have been doing wrong in the UK and Australia is actually looking for oncoming cars when you enter a roundabout. Instead what we should do is just drive into the roundabout and wait for other people to miss us! Don’t suggest you try it though…
We eventually found our hotel and gratefully checked in and enjoyed the fiercest airconditioning we have had to date. The next morning I was up early to go to the markets with Ann to buy the traditional Indian outfit, guaranteed (according to the Lonely Planet) to both be cool and practical to wear, and to fend off the unwanted advances of men. After ascertaining that the market only opened at 10.30, we went outside to get an auto-rickshaw (tuk tuk) to the Red Fort. Ah, the driver said, the Red Fort is closed this morning, it only opens later. But I can take you on a tour of the sights around here, there are temples and interesting things to see. Throwing caution to the wind, Ann and I agreed a price (well, we agreed to his price, haggling is not my thing) and we set off on a 1 ½ hour tour of the surrounding area. The first sight we saw was a money changing shop, swiftly followed by a Hindu statue on a roundabout (the view, which he encouraged us to take a photo of, was only partially obscured by the raised motorway and train line in front of it). Our third, and most interesting sight on the “tour” was a shop. At first Ann and I were sceptical, but then we realised that actually this sorted out our shopping problems by providing a chess set for Ann (for her son), and a salwar kameez for both of us (well, mine for Mum – hope you like it and you get it in time!!). So we spent quite a bit of time in the shop being charmed by the salesmen and making our purchases. On the way back to the hotel the “tour guide” started the serious business of trying to set up dinner for him and me – “Are you vegetarian?” “no” I replied. “Ah, non-vegetarian” was his response in a tone that was either awe or slight fear, it was difficult to tell. After assuring him that my boyfriend was big, strong, waiting for me at the hotel, and wouldn’t appreciate me trading email addresses with my new friend, he deposited us at the hotel, without any plans for dinner.
The rest of the day in Delhi was spent exploring the sights of the Red Fort, and the post office – quite an adventure, Mum, you owe me about 2 hours! (but we did get to meet the Chief Postmaster, and a nice man sewed our parcels up in muslin for us). Had my third curry of the day for dinner, and then off to bed for an early start the next day. Taxis at 5.30! That is almost inhumane!
The next day we headed off on the train to Agra. Where the roads are busy and noisy and chaotic, well, it is fair to say that the trains are somewhat similar! After shooing people off our pre-booked seats, we settled in for the 3 hour journey. The trains are a lot like the roads – noisy, crowded and hectic – but we arrived into Agra with no dramas, and headed off to Hotel Sheela (cue countless jokes about an Aussie girl booking a hotel called Sheela, and Jo being subjected to a photo in front of the sign). After an afternoon snooze (still a luxury even after 3 months of travelling!), then up in the afternoon to watch the sunset over the Taj Mahal. Our hotel was incredibly close to the Taj Mahal (“the Taj” to its friends), so it was no hassle to walk back from the river once we discovered that the man at the hotel who had so reliably informed us that the sun set at 6.30, was in fact out by about an hour and a half! Our first glimpse of the Taj excited us, and so we made plans to be up early in the morning.
Another 5.30 start, and we were queuing by 5.45 to get tickets, a bottle of water and some shoe covers, and then we were in. We were amongst the first in, and as we entered the gardens in front of the Taj Mahal itself, it was literally breathtaking. A greater gesture of romance and love there has never been. It is an absolutely fantastic sight, and we were able to spend a couple of hours wandering around, taking countless photos, and admiring its incredible scale and beauty.
After the Taj Mahal we headed back to the hotel for breakfast (more lemon and sugar pancakes for me! Not as good as yours though Mum), and then off to see Agra’s other sights. Our first stop was the Agra Fort (a very nice fort, and made slightly more exciting by watching an iguana fight a chipmunk – the iguana won, by the way, although the chipmunk did start it), and then on to the Baby Taj. The Baby Taj (yes, that is its actual name, although I don’t think that they called it that when they were building it) was amazing – a much smaller, and more ornate version of the Taj Mahal. Very beautiful, and well worth the tuk tuk ride to see it. Then it was back to the hotel, off to the station, and onto the train for the return journey to Delhi. Upon arriving in Delhi we were greeted by the very welcome sight of Pete at the wheel of Archie, our new truck. He’s no Penelope, but we love him nonetheless. And Indian traffic is a lot less frightening when you are surrounded by 9 tonnes of steel.
Archie:
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