“Maybe tomorrow” (Stereophonics)

We arrived into Baku on 26th May, with the intention of trying to get a ferry on the 27th. Unfortunately we weren’t able to get on one on the 27th, so we stayed an additional night, and hoped that there would be something available on the 28th. Getting onto a ferry requires the crew to visit the port several times a day in an attempt to ascertain whether there is a ferry that day, and whether the ferry will take us. A little difficult to plan for! So it was in the afternoon of the 28th that Pete returned with the good news that we were on a ferry that night, that was due to leave at midnight. We had to be at the port at 10pm, so after celebrating Shinnick’s birthday with a cake and traditional singing of “Happy Birthday” by Lionel Ritchie (albeit in truth the celebrations had started with Jamesons for breakfast), we headed to the port ready for a night on the ferry as we headed to Turkmenistan. The night could best be described as “hurry up and wait”. There was queuing, standing around, loading and unloading of sleeping bags and other bags, a fireworks display, a very cursory security check (the metal detector beeped when I walked through, but the security men seemed quite unconcerned), a quick passport check, and then a long dark walk along the side of the ferry, guided only by Tim’s laugh. While we waited to board the ferry, we were treated to a fist fight between two crew members which added to the trepidation that many of us felt as we stood around in the dark. When we finally boarded the ship, they made the women go first, and what was a gesture of good manners further inspired fear in most of us! Having settled into cabins, with a male in each room to act as security, we were able to properly celebrate Shinnick’s birthday through the medium of vodka. With over 2 hours on the boat before we left port (at 2.23am, C having won “the guessing game of departure time”, I was only 8 minutes out), we merrily stood on deck watching the light show from the Baku television tower. The journey across the Caspian Sea was uneventful as we were lucky to enjoy flat seas, bright sunshine during the day, and no wind. The crossing took us just over 12 hours, and we dropped anchor off the Turkmenbashi port at 3pm on the 29th. And there we remained. We were in a queue of ships receiving and dropping off goods, and unable to jump the queue in any way, we sat. Our local guide texted to say that we would be in port “maybe tomorrow”. Then when tomorrow came, we were told “maybe tonight”. Tough life:

The ferry was by no means a cruise liner. We slept in bunks with rotten and pitted mattresses, and graffiti including, directly above my head, “you are so sexy”. The toilet was quite a sight to behold (platforms for your feet? Why make life more difficult for yourself?), and there was a waterless shower. But it gave us all the opportunity for much journal updating and reading (I finally finished my second book of the trip!), a bit of sunbathing, and afternoon napping. We are gradually becoming nocturnal! The only downside appeared when we discovered cabin fever had kicked in as we discussed which one of the group we would eat first if we ran out of food (the answer, by the way, after much discussion, was C for main meal, given her love of meat, then Richard for dessert due to his love of icecream and fanta, and then Maura for the vegetarian option).

Playing UNO on the deck: Unfortunately the delay has meant that our time in Turkmenistan is going to be very limited!